Near completing all the exercises for Project 1 (I just need to sort out my histogram shots for Ex3) my mind has turned to Assignment 1 and the need to devise a themed assignment.
It seems quite apt that this weekend I read a chapter from "On Being a Photographer: Bill Jay & David Hurn"
(Published by Lenswork Publishing. Third edition 2001) entitled 'Selecting a Subject'.
It makes interesting reading as to how and why we should photograph certain subjects. They start off by discussing what the main principal of taking a photograph is and come up with the statement that "The destination of photography is to reveal what something or somebody looked like, under a particular set of conditions, at a particular moment in time, and to transmit the result to others" (p29)
This statement is true up to a point as we all know and recognise, that given a subject to capture 5 people will produce images that are totaly different; some will be more appealling, more interesting than others. So they ask the question what is it that transforms simple records into photographs of "lasting merit"?
On reading the answer I find myself agreeing with them that the passion a photographer feels about their chosen subject reflects upon how they wish to present it and therefore how they shoot it.
"It comes down to the choice of subject. The photographer must have intense curiosity, not just a passing visual interest, in the theme of the pictures. This curiosity leads to intense examination, reading, talking, research and many many failed attempts over a long period of time." (p29)
A recommended course of action is to put your camera away and view the world without it. Think about what interests you most, write a list, what fascinates you enough that you want to capture it and share it with the world? This is important as the curiosity and fascination you feel for a subject can be communicated through the images you capture. Once you have made some choices the next important things to consider are is it visual? You maybe interested in the centre of the earth but is it possible to photograph it? Is it practical? The subject needs to be continually accessible. Do you know enough about it? If not research it first. Will it be interesting to others? This last question is a difficult balancing act, you may produce stunning images but if the topic is highly specialized you reduce the intended audience, on the otherhand as a photographer you wish to produce images that appeal to you and not pander to the mass market.
List whittled down and a subject chosen, planning ahead is really important, and this links in nicely to workflow. A comment made when reflecting upon the work of others is "many of the best photographers in the world........are enthusiastic and knowledgeable about their subject and they plan ahead of the actual shooting."(p32) Also it can be important to restrict your topic, preferred lens and discover your own way of working. "The narrower and more clearly defined the subject matter at the start the more quickly identified is 'the direction in which to aim the camera' as Steiner said, and the more pictures are taken." (p32)
So there you have it! Find what you like, research it, go photograph it...simple ;o) I wish that it was :oD. I agree with their summing up that "The best pictures, for me, are those which go straight into the heart and the blood, and take some time to reach the brain," (p36)
This is where getting to grips with the craft of photography is so important, once you have grasped all the technical aspects of producing a technically acceptable image and it becomes second nature, you can relax and let instinct take over, allowing the thought process to take a back seat to the emotional process.
Sunday, 17 October 2010
Exercise 4 : Editing
For this task I decided to use the set of images I took during my Commercial Road shoot. There was a large selection of images to choose from and I could practise using the rating system within Adobe Bridge.
Editing Step One - the technical edit.
I opened all the images in Bridge and used the "reject" option to remove any of the images that were obvious faulty, the over/underexposed or those with camera shake. Select the image Alt + Delete marks the image as a reject. These images remain in the same folder but can be hidden using the filter options.
Editing Step 2 - the selects.
From the remaining images I chose the selection that I felt were most creatively pleasing and marked these by giving them 1 star, Ctrl + 1
Editing Step Three - the first selects
Working with this smaller group of images I need to choose several "bests". I used the filter for 1 star to bring up the step 2 selections. To make the next edit I marked the images with 2 stars, Ctrl 2. Before the technical edit I originally started out with over 200 shots; by this step I had whittled it down to 25. For a smaller portfolio I would go through these once more to have the final compliment of photographs. Thinking ahead to the final select of 2 I made the decision to cut these down to 12.
Most of the images I chose within this final group were selected because together they are a cohesive collection of images exploring a given area. They show the people and their environment, living in their environment and the mix of characters you find there. I liked the exploration of light and dark, the way the colours in each individual image pulled together. There is also a subtext of graffiti running through the set. In some of the images there is also a comparison of things old and new. Some images were chosen over others due to the composition or the fact they made for a more cohesive body of work.
Editing Step Four - group and review
Having made the decisions I had, I took a break so I could return to the process with a refreshed eye. Sometimes it is easy to overlook errors and include an image that may in fact be out of focus in the main area, or it may not have the movement you desired. Also you may sometimes exclude an image that may not be technically perfect but is actually a good record of an event, therefore it is good practise to review both rejected and first selects to confirm your final choices. Some technical errors can be recovered in post processing.
Below are the twelve images in my final set.
The order of the images tell the story of the journey walking down the Commercial Road. This first image I selected for several reasons. I like the composition of the people within the frame, the man walking out gives a sense of movement, whilst the pose and body language of the couple is that of a man trying to puzzle out some information while the female looks on waiting. The sign on the shop states "Posh Lady" but she is obviously dressed very casually. I love the way her top is reflected in the shutter and the colour is echoed in the red route markings on the road. The graffiti on the shutter is just one or many pieces of graffiti found along the route.
Walking further down one of the shop fronts has been painted with a very vibrant red and white mural, I like the primary colours in this shot, and the way the diversion sign was blowing in the wind. The shaft of light lighting up the facade adds interest. The arrows on the diversion sign help lead your eye into the frame.
I loved this shaft of light and spent some time trying to get the timing right with people or vehicles entering into it. I preferred this as it made for an interesting silhouette with the circle of the wheel echoed in the art work.
I chose this image mainly due to the colours and the shapes., however I feel many of the components indicate a time in history. The design of the bus, the phone booth and even the KFC cup will all eventually change.
What I liked about this shot is the contradiction of old peeling paint and a rundown shop compared to the Mercedes, and other expensive car parked outside. The colour of the cars and the blanked out sign compliment each other and we find yet more graffiti.
I enjoy the symmetry of this photograph and the contrast of the light and dark. I think this image shows the influences I have taken on board from Joel Meyerowitz, his use of light and dark, inclusion of street furniture and it's shadows. There is also the comparison of an older building situation opposite a modern glass structure.
Just off the Commercial Road is a thriving street market. I selected this image as it shows different generations using the market for their own purposes. The composion of the people allows you to see down through the market and the area in which it is set. The reds all help tie the image together.
Another busy market shot showing the people who frequent it. I liked the eye contact that the woman in the centre of the shot made. I included the silver bollard as I felt the reflections gave added interest. Here the colours also compliment each other, the blues and the blacks being most predominant, but the child's orangey top blends well with the head scarf.
I chose this image mainly for it's simplicity. I liked the composition and although there is a mix of colours I was pleased by the fact the woman in the background was wearing a purple headscarf which echoed in the vegetables on the stall just behind her. The beading on the scarf worn by my main subject echoed the mix of colours on the stall. What also caught my eye were the adverts in the shop window which indicate this is a very multicultural area.
As you walk further down the dereliction seems to increase with many boarded up shops and areas of demolition. These sit side by side with residential areas.
A closed down pub, again all boarded up, I was amused by the spelling mistake which seems to say as much about the care taken over attention to detail as well as the care taken over the area as a whole.
My final choice shows more empty and derelict business' while the posters on the front boast of new developments available to buy/rent.
The people in the shot also show how this is a multicultural area and the fashions of today will help date the shot to a certain era.
Editing Step Five - a final triage
These are my final 2 images.
It was quite difficult making a decision to choose these two final images. In the end I decided to pick the two that summed the area up best. There are a few images I personally prefer or I feel are possibly technically better but they did not narrate the story in a way these did.
This is a very simple shot but I chose it not only for the interpretations that can be made from it but also it is a true repesentation of what you find. There is a mix of residentional and business premises, many areas where buildings have been demolished and not rebuilt, walls and windows with graffiti, with a general feeling in places of everything shut down and locked up. The broken link suggests that something in society is broken but all it needs is someone or something to come and unlock it's potential.
This exercise has honed my editing skills. I followed a very similar routine previously but the majority of photographs I take are for my own pleasure or snapshots of a day out which others also also wish to share. In these circumstances I sometimes include shots that I am not totally happy with but do sum up the atmosphere of the day/event.
Having to select a series of images of a limited number is an interesting experience, making you examine the minute details of what makes an image work as an individual shot and also in a set. Learning more about the ratings in Bridge has proved very useful and I will use this feature now.
Editing Step One - the technical edit.
I opened all the images in Bridge and used the "reject" option to remove any of the images that were obvious faulty, the over/underexposed or those with camera shake. Select the image Alt + Delete marks the image as a reject. These images remain in the same folder but can be hidden using the filter options.
 |
| The Technical Edit |
Editing Step 2 - the selects.
From the remaining images I chose the selection that I felt were most creatively pleasing and marked these by giving them 1 star, Ctrl + 1
 |
| The Selects |
Editing Step Three - the first selects
Working with this smaller group of images I need to choose several "bests". I used the filter for 1 star to bring up the step 2 selections. To make the next edit I marked the images with 2 stars, Ctrl 2. Before the technical edit I originally started out with over 200 shots; by this step I had whittled it down to 25. For a smaller portfolio I would go through these once more to have the final compliment of photographs. Thinking ahead to the final select of 2 I made the decision to cut these down to 12.
Most of the images I chose within this final group were selected because together they are a cohesive collection of images exploring a given area. They show the people and their environment, living in their environment and the mix of characters you find there. I liked the exploration of light and dark, the way the colours in each individual image pulled together. There is also a subtext of graffiti running through the set. In some of the images there is also a comparison of things old and new. Some images were chosen over others due to the composition or the fact they made for a more cohesive body of work.
Editing Step Four - group and review
Having made the decisions I had, I took a break so I could return to the process with a refreshed eye. Sometimes it is easy to overlook errors and include an image that may in fact be out of focus in the main area, or it may not have the movement you desired. Also you may sometimes exclude an image that may not be technically perfect but is actually a good record of an event, therefore it is good practise to review both rejected and first selects to confirm your final choices. Some technical errors can be recovered in post processing.
Below are the twelve images in my final set.
My final choice shows more empty and derelict business' while the posters on the front boast of new developments available to buy/rent.
The people in the shot also show how this is a multicultural area and the fashions of today will help date the shot to a certain era.
Editing Step Five - a final triage
These are my final 2 images.
It was quite difficult making a decision to choose these two final images. In the end I decided to pick the two that summed the area up best. There are a few images I personally prefer or I feel are possibly technically better but they did not narrate the story in a way these did.
This image made it into my final two because to me it shows despite the dilapidation and very depressing surroundings, life goes on in a very busy and vibrant way. It also is an indication of how the generations change, a young girl enjoying playing with balloons, a teen sporting the latest fashion, and the current trend for wearing jeans half mast, with the older generation wearing traditional dress. I also liked the way the colour red was a theme throughout.
This is a very simple shot but I chose it not only for the interpretations that can be made from it but also it is a true repesentation of what you find. There is a mix of residentional and business premises, many areas where buildings have been demolished and not rebuilt, walls and windows with graffiti, with a general feeling in places of everything shut down and locked up. The broken link suggests that something in society is broken but all it needs is someone or something to come and unlock it's potential.
This exercise has honed my editing skills. I followed a very similar routine previously but the majority of photographs I take are for my own pleasure or snapshots of a day out which others also also wish to share. In these circumstances I sometimes include shots that I am not totally happy with but do sum up the atmosphere of the day/event.
Having to select a series of images of a limited number is an interesting experience, making you examine the minute details of what makes an image work as an individual shot and also in a set. Learning more about the ratings in Bridge has proved very useful and I will use this feature now.
Saturday, 16 October 2010
Editing
After a photoshoot, when you take as many images as possible in the time allowed, it is important to then take time to go through a selection process. The obvious errors deleted, the over/under exposed, the blurred put aside, which maybe revisited if well composed, leaving only the best remaining as a basic set.
This final set can then be even more closely examined, creative judgement applied and a decision made as to which final few images are "the best." However picture selection is highly subjective and people have personal preferences as to how some scenes should be portrayed.
To help me with this exercise I am going to explore Adobe Bridge in more depth and learn how to label or rate my images.
From the web site
http://help.adobe.com/en_US/Bridge/3.0/WS17406B5C-E04E-43c7-A8F1-5863C50ECA46a.html
Select one or more files and choose a label from the Label menu. To remove labels from files, choose Label > No Label.
This final set can then be even more closely examined, creative judgement applied and a decision made as to which final few images are "the best." However picture selection is highly subjective and people have personal preferences as to how some scenes should be portrayed.
To help me with this exercise I am going to explore Adobe Bridge in more depth and learn how to label or rate my images.
From the web site
http://help.adobe.com/en_US/Bridge/3.0/WS17406B5C-E04E-43c7-A8F1-5863C50ECA46a.html
Labeling files with a certain color or assigning ratings of zero (0) to five stars lets you mark a large number of files quickly. You can then sort files according to their color label or rating.
For example, suppose you’re viewing a large number of imported images in Adobe Bridge. As you review each new image, you can label the images you want to keep. After this initial pass, you can use the Sort command to display and work on files that you’ve labeled with a particular color.
You can label and rate folders as well as files.
You can assign names to labels in Labels preferences. The name is then added to the file’s metadata when you apply the label. When you change names of labels in preferences, any files with the older label appear with white labels in the Content panel.
For example, suppose you’re viewing a large number of imported images in Adobe Bridge. As you review each new image, you can label the images you want to keep. After this initial pass, you can use the Sort command to display and work on files that you’ve labeled with a particular color.
You can label and rate folders as well as files.
You can assign names to labels in Labels preferences. The name is then added to the file’s metadata when you apply the label. When you change names of labels in preferences, any files with the older label appear with white labels in the Content panel.
Note: When you view folders, Adobe Bridge shows both labeled and unlabeled files until you choose another option.
Label files
Select one or more files and choose a label from the Label menu. To remove labels from files, choose Label > No Label.Rate files
- Select one or more files.
- Do any of the following:
- In the Content panel, click the dot representing the number of stars you want to give the file. (In Thumbnail view, a thumbnail must be selected for the dots to appear. Also, dots do not appear in very small thumbnail views. If necessary, scale the thumbnails until the dots appear. In List view, make sure that the Ratings column is visible.)
- Choose a rating from the Label menu.
- To add or remove one star, choose Label > Increase Rating or Label > Decrease Rating.
- To remove all stars, choose Label > No Rating.
- To add a Reject rating, choose Label > Reject.
Note: To hide rejected files in Adobe Bridge, choose View > Show Reject Files
Although a CS3 tutorial I found this useful :o)
Exercise 3: Histogram
The purpose of this task is to familiarise myself with histograms by relating each one to an image. Histograms should be used twice during workflow, once on the LCD of the camera and again in post production.
Shoot 3 scenes of low, average and high contrast and for each of these scenes shoot 3 versions, correctly (or averagely) exposed then one that is one stop darker and another one stop brighter. Resulting in 9 seperate images and histograms to be analysed.
Standard f stop number scale is :-
1.0, 1.4, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, 32, 45, 64, 90, 128
Each image should then be opened in Photoshop with the highlight and shadow clipping warnings displayed. Screenshots are to be taken along with relevant notation of observations made.
High Contrast Image
The following shots were taken in my back garden on a cloudy day using ISO 400 and a Cloudy WB. The 1 stop gaps between exposures were made by altering the fstops as I am more confident with 1 stop gaps with aperture rather than shutter speed. The correct exposures were taken @ f5.6 the underexposed @ f8 and the over exposed @ f4.
I placed a white statue against a shaded bush hoping this would create enough of a contrast.With a high contrast image the values are spread across the histogram from one end to the other.
Low Contrast Image
With a low contrast image the values are more squeezed together in the histogram. There are no absolute blacks or whites and no clipping was displayed.
Viewing the histogram for the underexposed umage you can see that the values shift to the lefthand side but yet again do not touch the very end of the scale. Once more there are no highlight or shadow clipping warnings.
Shoot 3 scenes of low, average and high contrast and for each of these scenes shoot 3 versions, correctly (or averagely) exposed then one that is one stop darker and another one stop brighter. Resulting in 9 seperate images and histograms to be analysed.
Standard f stop number scale is :-
1.0, 1.4, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, 32, 45, 64, 90, 128
Each image should then be opened in Photoshop with the highlight and shadow clipping warnings displayed. Screenshots are to be taken along with relevant notation of observations made.
High Contrast Image
The following shots were taken in my back garden on a cloudy day using ISO 400 and a Cloudy WB. The 1 stop gaps between exposures were made by altering the fstops as I am more confident with 1 stop gaps with aperture rather than shutter speed. The correct exposures were taken @ f5.6 the underexposed @ f8 and the over exposed @ f4.
I placed a white statue against a shaded bush hoping this would create enough of a contrast.With a high contrast image the values are spread across the histogram from one end to the other.
 |
| f5.6 JPEG |
Screen shots of both RAW and JPEG files were taken to see if there was much of a comparison between the two and also to be able to display highlight and shadow clipping in RAW.
To my eye there only seems to be a very slight variation.
 |
| f5.6 RAW |
Because of the nature of this shot and the fact the sun peeked out whilst I was shooting there are few highlight warnings on the uppermost leaves and a little on the statue. In the densest part of the bush there are also a few shadow warnings, these indicate that there are areas within this image where there is pure white and pure black.
 |
| f4 RAW |
With the overexposed image the values on the histogram have moved to the right and there is a marked peak at the very end of the scale. There are only a few very indescernable shadow warnings whilst the highlight clipping has increased.
 |
| f8 RAW |
With the underexposed image the values again have shifted but this time to the left with there being nothing touching the righthand side at all. This time the balance of clipping has also changed to display more areas of deep shadow. There are a few highlights due to the sun falling on the leaves and middle of the statue.
A sunnier day but with nothing readily available which was offering me a good low contrast image/histogram I resorted to shooting the clouds in the sky.
 |
| f5.6 RAW |
With a low contrast image the values are more squeezed together in the histogram. There are no absolute blacks or whites and no clipping was displayed.
 |
| f4 RAW |
With the over exposed image although the values shift to the righthand side they still do not touch the end and again there are no clipping warnings.
 |
| f8 RAW |
Viewing the histogram for the underexposed umage you can see that the values shift to the lefthand side but yet again do not touch the very end of the scale. Once more there are no highlight or shadow clipping warnings.
Average Contrast Image
 |
| f5.6 RAW |
For an average contrast image the histogram usually the full range of values are represented and the graph gradually peaks in the middle with a gentle slope back down the other side. There was just a minimum of highlight clipping on the pot and a tiny amount of shadow clipping under a few leaves.
 |
| f4 RAW |
On the overexposed image the values shifted a little to the right and the highlight clipping only increased slightly.
 |
| f8 RAW |
The histogram for the under exposed image definately show the values shifting to the left and the shadow clipping has increased in the shaded areas.
I enjoyed this exercise more than I thought I would. It was quite a challenge to obtain good examples of each histogram which surprised me. Some of the situations I thought would provide me with high contrast or average contrast histograms in fact didn't! Which in effect emphasises the need to regularly check the camera histogram because what your eyes see the camera dosent and this may well effect the exposure settings we choose at the outset.
Histograms
Histograms are an invaluable tool when it comes to evaluating exposure. The Canon 400D gives you the opportunity to view a histogram on the back of the camera.
A histogram is a bar graph that shows either the greyscale brightness in the image - from black- left (level 0) to white - right (level 255), or Red, Green, Blue (RGB) brightness levels along the bottom. The vertical axis displays the number of pixels at each location.
Some scenes will naturally be weighted towards one side of the scale or the other, specifically with predominantly light or dark tones. In average scenes it is best to aim for a fairly even distribution across the entire graph, and in most cases this means avoiding having pixels crowded against the far left or right side.
During image playback on the Canon 400D press the DISP button twice to display the image with a histogram. This also has a highlight alert which flashes to show areas which are over exposed. If shooting RAW capture, the LCD playback is based on the JPEG image and therefore there may possibly be a slight difference to the histogram that you view on the PC.
Useful information can be found in the Digital R.bel XTi/400D Digital Field Guide Lowrie, Charlotte K. Wiley Publishing Inc 2007
and also here
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/understanding-histograms.shtml
http://www.dpreview.com/learn/?/Glossary/Digital_Imaging/Histogram_01.htm
A histogram is a bar graph that shows either the greyscale brightness in the image - from black- left (level 0) to white - right (level 255), or Red, Green, Blue (RGB) brightness levels along the bottom. The vertical axis displays the number of pixels at each location.
Some scenes will naturally be weighted towards one side of the scale or the other, specifically with predominantly light or dark tones. In average scenes it is best to aim for a fairly even distribution across the entire graph, and in most cases this means avoiding having pixels crowded against the far left or right side.
During image playback on the Canon 400D press the DISP button twice to display the image with a histogram. This also has a highlight alert which flashes to show areas which are over exposed. If shooting RAW capture, the LCD playback is based on the JPEG image and therefore there may possibly be a slight difference to the histogram that you view on the PC.
Useful information can be found in the Digital R.bel XTi/400D Digital Field Guide Lowrie, Charlotte K. Wiley Publishing Inc 2007
and also here
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/understanding-histograms.shtml
http://www.dpreview.com/learn/?/Glossary/Digital_Imaging/Histogram_01.htm
Exercise 2: Your own workflow - 2 Review
For this assignment I followed more or less the outline workflow from Exercise 1.
Reflecting on assignment 2 choosing the location was fairly straight forward. I enjoy the challenge of street/documentary photography, feel this is an area where I can improve my techniques and so I was more than happy to join a flickr group organised trip to the Commercial Road and surrounding area in London. I had to check the train timetable and arrange a meet up time. All equipment was prepared the previous evening, (cards formatted in camera and batteries charged) I consciously made the decision to only take one lens, my 18-55mm kit lens as I felt it was less obtrusive and would cover the range of shots I wanted to take. Forecast checked and suitably attired I set off. Photographs were taken using jpeg and RAW and I constantly checked my manual settings/histogram due to the changing light conditions. I had originally set my WB to auto, ISO 400 f10 and had in mind to try and stick with a focal length of 18mm. I adjusted these settings when needed but did find on occasion that I had knocked some of the settings in error so I need to make sure I take care with the buttons!
A total of 221 shots were taken over the course of several hours. I would check my LCD to make sure of correct framing and was I achieving the results I had hoped for. During the shoot I feel I anticipated the needs of various stages well. I possibly should have taken a lens hood as the sun was out more than the forecast had anticipated and at one point I was rather warm but was able to remove a layer ;o) I was happy with the location and the rest of the equipment taken.
The group I went with at one point all ended up in the same small market, so we were rather obvious walking around with DSLR's therefore that is something I need to take into consideration; possibly going in a smaller group or on my own.
Returning home I used the workflow I have established so far uploading my digital images using Adobe Bridge. I have a card reader but my PC also has one built in. I always upload using this as it saves my camera battery.
Although I use Bridge I am still learning all the functions it has. I am aware that you can rate/label your images and then display the images according to how many stars were given, I have as yet to practise this more and learn how to apply labels. I think this will help me review and edit my images more quickly. I have a set archiving system but have changed it slightly to reflect the fact I wish to keep all my OCA images together as well in the main folder on my PC and external drive. Images will be backed up onto disc fairly quickly. I also create proofsheets but invariably this is done sometime after and I tend to use Epson Photoquicker to make them. Images are named yyyy/mm/dd/event this enables me to find them in a chronological order which I find works best for me.
Once again images were edited, then opened in RAW. A few minor adjustments were made to exposure, then opened in Photoshop. Adjustment layers made if needed . Saved as TIF then Jpeg and sharpened using unsharp mask.
Carrying out these exercises have once again shown me the importance of having a plan in mind as it focuses your overall aim and how you expect to achieve it. Contingency can then be built in from the start. An established workflow means you automatically carry out tasks in a tried and tested fashion and are less likely to overlook something important or make mistakes. However you must be able to adapt and be flexible with your plans and also be prepared to learn new things along the way.
Below are two images that I quite liked from the set I edited.
More images from the set can be found on my flickr page http://www.flickr.com/photos/12544345@N08/sets/72157625053762396/
I found surfing the net and carrying out research into the way others complete their workflow there are only a few very small differences. They are usually to do with preference in naming files and how quickly back up is done. Some don't shoot in RAW... The links below were informative and reasuring that my workflow is basically sound even if it could use a few tweaks....unfortunately I don't have access to immediate back up if out on location. nor do I have a fireproof safe ;o)
http://www.picturecorrect.com/tips/develop-an-efficient-photography-workflow/
http://www.dphotojournal.com/photoshop-tutorial-seven-essential-steps-to-digital-workflow/
http://www.oreillynet.com/pub/a/javascript/2003/12/17/digital_photography.html
Reflecting on assignment 2 choosing the location was fairly straight forward. I enjoy the challenge of street/documentary photography, feel this is an area where I can improve my techniques and so I was more than happy to join a flickr group organised trip to the Commercial Road and surrounding area in London. I had to check the train timetable and arrange a meet up time. All equipment was prepared the previous evening, (cards formatted in camera and batteries charged) I consciously made the decision to only take one lens, my 18-55mm kit lens as I felt it was less obtrusive and would cover the range of shots I wanted to take. Forecast checked and suitably attired I set off. Photographs were taken using jpeg and RAW and I constantly checked my manual settings/histogram due to the changing light conditions. I had originally set my WB to auto, ISO 400 f10 and had in mind to try and stick with a focal length of 18mm. I adjusted these settings when needed but did find on occasion that I had knocked some of the settings in error so I need to make sure I take care with the buttons!
A total of 221 shots were taken over the course of several hours. I would check my LCD to make sure of correct framing and was I achieving the results I had hoped for. During the shoot I feel I anticipated the needs of various stages well. I possibly should have taken a lens hood as the sun was out more than the forecast had anticipated and at one point I was rather warm but was able to remove a layer ;o) I was happy with the location and the rest of the equipment taken.
The group I went with at one point all ended up in the same small market, so we were rather obvious walking around with DSLR's therefore that is something I need to take into consideration; possibly going in a smaller group or on my own.
Returning home I used the workflow I have established so far uploading my digital images using Adobe Bridge. I have a card reader but my PC also has one built in. I always upload using this as it saves my camera battery.
 |
| Uploading from memory card to PC via Adobe Bridge |
 |
| Choosing file/folder and applying metadata |
 |
| Viewing images for the first time |
Although I use Bridge I am still learning all the functions it has. I am aware that you can rate/label your images and then display the images according to how many stars were given, I have as yet to practise this more and learn how to apply labels. I think this will help me review and edit my images more quickly. I have a set archiving system but have changed it slightly to reflect the fact I wish to keep all my OCA images together as well in the main folder on my PC and external drive. Images will be backed up onto disc fairly quickly. I also create proofsheets but invariably this is done sometime after and I tend to use Epson Photoquicker to make them. Images are named yyyy/mm/dd/event this enables me to find them in a chronological order which I find works best for me.
Once again images were edited, then opened in RAW. A few minor adjustments were made to exposure, then opened in Photoshop. Adjustment layers made if needed . Saved as TIF then Jpeg and sharpened using unsharp mask.
Carrying out these exercises have once again shown me the importance of having a plan in mind as it focuses your overall aim and how you expect to achieve it. Contingency can then be built in from the start. An established workflow means you automatically carry out tasks in a tried and tested fashion and are less likely to overlook something important or make mistakes. However you must be able to adapt and be flexible with your plans and also be prepared to learn new things along the way.
Below are two images that I quite liked from the set I edited.
 |
| Repairs to London Bridge |
 |
| Watching the light |
More images from the set can be found on my flickr page http://www.flickr.com/photos/12544345@N08/sets/72157625053762396/
I found surfing the net and carrying out research into the way others complete their workflow there are only a few very small differences. They are usually to do with preference in naming files and how quickly back up is done. Some don't shoot in RAW... The links below were informative and reasuring that my workflow is basically sound even if it could use a few tweaks....unfortunately I don't have access to immediate back up if out on location. nor do I have a fireproof safe ;o)
http://www.picturecorrect.com/tips/develop-an-efficient-photography-workflow/
http://www.dphotojournal.com/photoshop-tutorial-seven-essential-steps-to-digital-workflow/
http://www.oreillynet.com/pub/a/javascript/2003/12/17/digital_photography.html
Exercise 2: Your own Workflow - 2
The aim of exercise 2 is similar to the first i.e devising a particular workflow for a specific shooting assignment however this nest assignment should be open-ended and unstructured. The key elements of this workflow are :
The basic workflow remains the same but as I had chosen to take advantage of an outing organised to visit the Commercial Road for my assignment I needed to take into consideration travel arrangements and timings that also fit in with others. I travel lighter when doing street photography and H&S is different as you need to take into consideration members of the public and traffic.
Reviewing images after a period of time is always a good idea to ensure you have the correct exposure settings and are obtaining the images that you had in mind at the outset. However it is never a good idea to delete individual images from your memory card as this can corrupt the card.
- the number of images being unpredictable but high
- it should last a sufficient amount of time that you would want to consider reviewing and possibly partially editing the images during the shoot.
The basic workflow remains the same but as I had chosen to take advantage of an outing organised to visit the Commercial Road for my assignment I needed to take into consideration travel arrangements and timings that also fit in with others. I travel lighter when doing street photography and H&S is different as you need to take into consideration members of the public and traffic.
Reviewing images after a period of time is always a good idea to ensure you have the correct exposure settings and are obtaining the images that you had in mind at the outset. However it is never a good idea to delete individual images from your memory card as this can corrupt the card.
[Choose genre and location
[Organise suitable transportation to location, check timetables etc
[Choose suitable equipment according to what you own and can carry
[Prepare equipment. Ensure battery and spare are fully charged. Batteries in flash charged. Memory cards formatted and spare cards available. Lens and sensor are clean
[Check weather conditions and dress accordingly. Take light refreshments.
[Ensure health and safety is taken into consideration
[Street/Documentary Photography means constant observation and watching the light, looking for opportunities
[Take photographs. If trying for a coherent style keep the focal length the same. If experimenting vary focal length/lens to discover your preferred way of working.
[Take photographs using jpeg+RAW
[Upload to PC using Adobe Bridge
[Use Template to embed metadata and apply custom name
[View images, complete technical check deleting outright mistakes
[Choose final images for processing
[Open in Camera Raw
[Use Workspace ProPhoto 16bit 300dpi
[Adjust if necessary. Exposure reading first, temperature, tint and anything else as required
[Open in Photoshop
[Crop if required
[Create curves layer rename C&D (Colour and Density)
[Crop if required
[Create curves layer rename C&D (Colour and Density)
[Create other adjustment layers as required. Fine tune adjustment layers using black and white paintbrushes to remove/reapply layer mask. Adjust opacity, size hardness of brush to obtain required effect.
[Save Master file with layers intact. Save As Tiff file, LZW, ZIP compression then flatten Image, Save As TiffV2 for conversion to other file/image sizes.
[Sharpen at last stage before printing or final use in Books or Web. For internet use colour profile SRGB and resize. Adobe Photoshop CS4 has a useful "save for web" option. For personal printing use ProPhoto. If using printers establish which colour profiles they work with.
[ Set correct printer [ Paper Orientation [ Colour Management [Photoshop Manages Colour
[Printer/paper profile [Perceptual [ Black Point Compensation.
[Page Set Up [Best Photo [Advanced Tab
[Source Sheet [ Paper Type [ Photo RPM [ Paper Size [ Untick High Speed [ ICM [ OK [ Print
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)